John & Anne Wiley

2012/02/12

Rides

A few years ago, few things were more fun than body surfing. The feel of the water around me. The rush when a set came in and a big one stood up to invite some fun. Unconsciously using past breaks on this day’s waves to calculate where this monster would break. Swimming hard to be at the right place. Just barely catching it, and then falling into the groove to ride until my mind started turning to the next wave and deciding whether to bail and try for it. Such pure physical, emotional and spiritual joy. Why would anyone ever do anything else?

0188 Smooth

0188 Smooth

It’s all Smooth somehow. Perfection. Now maybe if I’d ever gotten good on a board I’d still be out there, but as you know by now I’d rather be flying. Having been there makes watching a ride like this from our magic carpet all the more enchanting. There is a powerful Smooth for me on a good flight. Heck, on most flights. It might be something we see, or the song of Tripp’s engine, or a turn. Even landings sometimes are akin to catching that wave and feeling again the Smooth of a great ride.

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