John & Anne Wiley

2011/05/18

Misty Meander

We bucked up our courage and left the cozy B&B after one last tasty breakfast, and since the weather is still too fuzzy for flying we took another long drive across the island. This time picking up near where we left off at the Green Gables (every time I type that it gets the old TV show tune for Green Acres playing in my head somehow) house in Cavendish. Turns out there are at least three L.M.M. houses and all seem to boast green trim of some kind. Our first today was her birth house, where we met a couple celebrating their anniversary. “Nice way to celebrate,” said Anne. “For her,” said I.

0140 Dedicated Hubby

0140 Dedicated Hubby

You may already know I’m a sucker for such stuff, and I confess to having misted up a bit watching the brief intro movie at the official Canadian Government approved Gables house we visited a few days ago. So though I offered the snide quip that Anne and the woman laughed at (the man wisely remained stoically silent), it was I who had brought us here on the drive. Nice that it also earned me major brownie points with the missus. 🙂

0142 Lobster Dinghy

0142 Lobster Dinghy

Across the street was this well-used little boat that has put food on the table when the tourists are scarce in Winter. Driving further West along the North coast, we paused to admire the ground fog that gave everything such a mystical quality as it silently wafted up from the plowed fields trying to rejoin the mists hanging a few hundred feet above.

0146 Misty Fields

0146 Misty Fields

A little further along we came to Silver Bush, a home much loved by the Gables gal.

0148 Silver Bush

0148 Silver Bush

The elderly man mowing the massive lawn on his trusty ride mower motioned us toward the house as if he thought didn’t know it was public (small fee), and his elderly dog grumbled and shared his singing bark as if he yearned for the tourist-free Winter months and lamented coming Summer crowds. Both they and the grandmotherly woman at the counter inside were friendly though, and we enjoyed browsing the gift shop for a few minutes. We then drove along the eastern shores of the massive Malpeque Bay, pausing occasionally to admire the views.

0153 Malpeque Bay

0153 Malpeque Bay

Now I don’t want to say it gets too windy on PEI, but this sight on a grassy knoll facing the bay seems to tell a story in how far it is from the spiffy foundation.

0155 Blown Away

0155 Blown Away

There were plenty of beautiful old homes too, weathered and silent, holding generations of memories.

0162 Past Lives

0162 Past Lives

Who stood in that window? What were they looking at, and who was in their thoughts and feelings?

0163 Reflective Window

0163 Reflective Window

Anne caught this snap I like, of a colorful little fishing village on one of the inlets in the quiet bay. The lives and stories are still thriving there, spilling warm laughter and music into the chilly edges of the ancient silence.

0335 Fishing Village

0335 Fishing Village

She also got this snap of me with the very helpful Donna in a hardware store. She’d helped us find and affix some double-sided tape to hold the gel insole of Anne’s shoe that had been rolling up beneath her heel.

0343 Delightful Donna

0343 Delightful Donna

Such a delightful woman, you know that Winters here are fun for everyone in the little communities as they gather in the dark snowy nights. We had already paused in nearby Indian River passing the striking St. Mary’s Church, to snap some pix for you.

0165 St. Mary's

0165 St. Mary's

I wonder what the stories are behind the ring of old guys whose likenesses are carved on the statues decorating the tall spire.

0166 Men in High Places

0166 Men in High Places

As we checked in, at the near edge of a large open field outside our new motel in Summerside we spotted a pair of foxes playing tag around a small tree.

0167 Fox Tag

0167 Fox Tag

They were so full of life and fun we watched for several minutes until they finally bounded off toward their den near the bay where they dig for oysters.

0170 Patient Ambush

0170 Patient Ambush

Thanks to gMaps on our phone we found a fun little local fish & chips place on a side road at the edge of town that’s popular with locals but we saw nary another tourist. The owner’s daughter has a guitar sitting on a stand, so I asked if there would be music. “No, someone was trying to teach me to play,” she replied. This was all the encouragement needed to get me playing and singing with Anne and the guy at the left and teaching her the three chords of G major. If we ever come back, I hope to hear her doing rousing renditions of Johnny Cash songs mixed with her creations.

0350 Fish, Chips & Music

0350 Fish, Chips & Music

Back at the motel Anne begged until I agreed to walk out in the cold dusk where the foxes had gone. I confess it was fun, and I’m glad she wanted to turn back when we ensured there was no dry trail through the tall wet grass.

0173 Nightfall at Fox Den

0173 Nightfall at Fox Den

In addition to Anne’s happiness and the bracing air, I was treated to a photo op using my flash to accent the young trees reaching for warmth so they can finally explode with leaves. Their bare limbs lit against the distant nightfall somehow evoke the tantalizing nearness of the Spring we had hoped for during our time here.

0176 Anticipation of Spring

0176 Anticipation of Spring

There’s a fair chance we’ll finally be able to fly tomorrow. Maybe to Newfoundland, probably at least to Nova Scotia, and maybe just a retreat back to Maine or Vermont.

2011/05/16

Flying (or not)

Rain. Misty, dribbly, drizzly, intermixed with bigger lumpy drops of inexorable and interminable wetness.

0131 Island Puddle

0131 Island Puddle

So we’re In today, enjoying some hard-core R&R. We watched the old movie “Local Hero” this morning, probably the fourth time for me and the first for Anne because she slept through the other three. Perfect slow, quirky and inward movie for today somehow. First TV we’ve watched in quite a while, and the 20″ screen 12′ across the room is quite a contrast to our screen at home. After snapping the puddle above, I realized it reminds me of the land form shapes hereabouts (looking at lots of gEarth, gMaps, satellite weather, aeronautical charts and radar rain images today). Anyway, here’s the puddle in context, at the bottom of this pic out our window.

0133 Backyard Wetland

0133 Backyard Wetland

Though it’s raining more than yesterday, paradoxically the clouds are higher. Translation: we could fly today, but we don’t want to. The forecasts have consistently promised better weather in 4-5 days, for the last 4-5 days, but this time several different forecasts are showing more promise for tomorrow and Wednesday so we’ll probably move our official Primary Base of Operations back to Summerside (name still makes us smile) to be ready for any real break. Getting to Newfoundland demands clearer skies. If the forecast taunt of clear skies moves further into the future again, we might just sacrifice my dream of Newfoundland on the altar of reality and fly back to Maine below the clouds with probably a stop in Nova Scotia as we could have on several recent days. Having heard many intriguing stories about Newfies, I’d really like to go there even for a brief stop to find out what makes them so different (not fully part of Canada, half-hour different time zone, “friendly folk with a powerful independent streak,” etc…).

Meanwhile I snapped a wet bird flitting down from a tree across the yard, and felt glad not to be flying.

0134 Wet Bird Descending

0134 Wet Bird Descending

2011/05/15

Time & Tide

After a hearty breakfast we took advantage of the laundry facilities in our B&B to do our clothes, then took off for a leisurely long drive across PEI. Well, from Charlottetown up to Cavendish area and back on a loop of several back roads. Clearly this island caters to tourists, so there are lots of kitsch shops including one with statues of riding figures out front.

0114 Riders & Mounts

0114 Riders & Mounts

The steed with a monkey on its back looks less mellow than our mood, but the serene sculpture on the left had the rider apparently using the animal’s tail as a saddle in some way that both seem comfortable with. We stopped because of this sign:

0117 Cafe Open

0117 Cafe Open

Turned out it was only the half dozen or more gift shops that were open, so we saddled up for the short drive out to PEI National Park for a look at the mercifully quiet Gulf of St. Lawrence.

0118 Quiet Gulf

0118 Quiet Gulf

You could see signs of how much pounding this shore gets in more turbulent storms, and ample indications (not just all the wind turbine generators) of how much wind there often is. Back on the country roads though, we saw water parks, amusement rides, and even what looked like a full-size space shuttle.

0122 Landing Error?

0122 Landing Error?

One theory we discussed is that women come to Cavendish to walk the ground of L.M. Montgomery, and the kids (especially the boys) are much happier dropped off at the many nearby entertainments than watching their mothers wander dreamily around an old house. Arriving at the only real focus of our drive, we were greeted by a charming wild, slightly lame and tame fox.

0304 Calmly Alert

0304 Calmly Alert

It was clearly interested in handouts, though we had none, and it circled warily at a fairly exact distance of 20 yards pausing to politely convey a nonverbal request for food before meandering off in search of better-supplied tourists. We then turned our attention back to the other side of the parking lot where a small cottage draws big crowds on sunnier days. My precious Anne was named for this place with the green gables, and she was absolutely sparkling with the joy of being there.

0310 Anne of Green Gables

0310 Anne of Green Gables

For a few dollars we got to wander the original house that inspired the author to write her first book, and to see her upstairs bedroom.

0315 Dreamer's Room

0315 Dreamer's Room

We stood in the yard by a tree that was probably young back then, and looked at the meadow and haunted woods.

0317 Pondering Past & Present

0317 Pondering Past & Present

Arriving half an hour before closing time on a cool day before peak season gave us a quiet and reflective time to be there with just a few other hushed and hardy souls. In a somewhat more contemplative mood we set off again on a loop back toward town, with more glimpses of the Gulf.

0277 Sand & Sea

0277 Sand & Sea

It was raining of course but our friend from Toronto told us not to believe locals when they say it’s not usually like this, so we decided to actually visit Toronto via an enchanting red dirt back road shortcut.

0123 Back Road

0123 Back Road

Toronto itself turned out to be more than a little disappointing, consisting primarily of two intersecting roads dividing two houses marked only by a leaning sign post.

0125 Toronto City Centre

0125 Toronto City Centre

Luckily we did see many picturesque places like the little village of Rusticoville along the way.

0294 Yellow & Green

0294 Yellow & Green

Many places where time and tide await the patient wanderer with the quiet sound of distant birds and lapping waters, above a hint of air moving through trees.

0326 Time & Tide

0326 Time & Tide

On our new route home we looked across the small bay where we walked exploring the restored homes, and the culinary school where we enjoyed fresh chowder.

0128 Another View of Home

0128 Another View of Home

We savored the day, memories of youth, the joys of maturity, and an inner calm that refreshes our love of adventure.

Calm Mist

Filed under: Happiness,Has Photos,MeriTimes Adventure,Random — John @ 03:38

Today a calm mist settled over Charlottetown and infused us with rest. We’ve been leaping states and provinces, moving from one sleeping arrangement to another, packing, unpacking, repacking, and filling our hearts and minds with the spirit of Travel. So we slept in, brought the lovely second B of B&B (Breakfast) to our room on a tray, and didn’t get out until late afternoon. I took a deep breath just now recalling that. 🙂

When we did get out, our first stop was a shop for luxury items named Dollarama. There I got a clear vinyl umbrella for $2, and (after assuring ourselves that none of the other zillions of cheap items were needed) we headed for the Big Tourist Attraction noted on a map: Ardgowan.

0241 Ardgowan Ambivalence

0241 Ardgowan Ambivalence

The first impression is, “What’s the big deal?” It’s the house of a Pope (name, not title) who was instrumental in Canadian confederation, and is a national park. Now to be fair, it was closed so we only saw the outside of an otherwise unremarkable victorian house with few ornamentations. Later we learned there’s also an Anne of Green Gables info centre of some kind next door. Anyway, after a soggy stroll around the front we drove on to see what’s across the short bridge to Stratford.

0256 Stratford Bridge

0256 Stratford Bridge

Out of view to the right are remnants of the stone footings of an older bridge that the cormorants use to dry their wings and think about fish. Stratford seems to be a residential suburb, so we found ourselves looking back at Charlottetown where we noticed what looks like a tanker ship and two tall church spires.

0254 Port Spires

0254 Port Spires

We walked past that church yesterday, and I’ve already forgotten the name but it’s one of several interesting old structures in the heart of town. Heading back across the bridge we drove along the waterfront to see the other side of the tanker, and found it’s parked in front of last night’s lobster restaurant.

0261 Lobster Tanker

0261 Lobster Tanker

There’s also a museum just visible on the left, that we seem to always be near when it’s closed. So driving on we toured more of the quaint side streets downtown with a variety of shops, and a bakery where we got some goodies. Near our B&B we paused to admire the Haviland Club (1869) near the water with an observation tower like the nearby place we saw on our first night in town. We imagined mariners up there watching the comings and goings at the harbor, perhaps yearning for a return to the sea or maybe remembering epic storms they endured in the icy ocean.

0267 Haviland Club

0267 Haviland Club

An institutional looking 2-story building across the street (think DMV) got barely a glance until the aroma of home cooking got us checking wind direction and taking a closer look. Then we noticed something about a culinary college on a sign, and the car began moving in that direction all by itself. We got a really good seafood chowder for two for 1/3 what we paid last night that included ample servings of fresh lobster, scallops, mussels, shrimp, and maybe crab. Spiced just right in a delicious cream sauce and a generous enough portion that even split it left us unable to consider dessert. We brought our warm bellies home, did some laundry, and now find ourselves up late again researching things to do while we wait for the weather to improve. We have a plan, and tomorrow we’ll let you know how it unfolds. Meanwhile, I hope this short tale of travelers becalmed in restful mists doesn’t leave you feeling sleepy as it does me…

2011/05/14

Friday the 13th

This morning was a little bit scary.

0206 Men In Black

0206 Men In Black

Not just the bare trees in mid-May, or the fact that our hotel was swarming with cops. That’s just because this hotel is one of the main training sites for the RCMP (cops), and was not an indication of a raid or bust of any kind. In fact, they were all quite friendly and many were even a bit shy. It was a bit scary due to the other thing you might notice in the above pic, and even more in the one below.

0087 Vanishing Windmill

0087 Vanishing Windmill

The top blade on the wind turbine above has vanished in the fog, and the wind is so strong the blades are bent back. The top pic shows that the visibility was less than a mile at 11am or so. A bit scary to think about trying to fly in that soup, and we were glad to have chosen Summerside (still giggling at that name) rather than Moncton because PEI has so many fun things to do.

We rented an incredibly cheap and quite comfy car from Enterprise, who picked us up at the hotel next to the airport, and drove into Charlottetown (passing through New Haven again on the way, a cute tiny village but alas not Molly’s New Haven in CT).

0105 Wrong New Haven

0105 Wrong New Haven

Our B&B is in a neighborhood of beautifully maintained victorian houses like this one with an observation tower built by a rich mariner.

0217 Beaconsfield House

0217 Beaconsfield House

We walked all around the downtown in the cold wind, and had trouble deciding between several good choices of cuisine before ending up on the waterfront for fresh lobster. Janie our waitress entertained some kids at the next table by coaxing a randomly-selected one of the feisty live crustaceans to stand on its head.

0235 Lobster Headstand

0235 Lobster Headstand

She’s substitute-teaching and earning an Ed degree to teach elementary school, so her ability to make learning fun and interesting was infectious (she got a round of applause from the patrons after the trick). Turns out lobsters are hypnotized by stroking their head between the eyes, and they will hold still as you prop them up in a 3-point headstand. Once everyone started taking flash photos, it woke up and started moving again none the worse for the stunt.

We’ve enjoyed talking with PE Islanders a lot. At most stops we’ll ask people what they like best about living where they do. Some love it, some hate it, and most are just there (job, family, inertia, fear of travel, or whatever). Every one of the half dozen or so people we’ve asked here say they love it! Reasons cited are Peaceful, Friendly, Beautiful and Entertainments ranging from arts to outdoors. It’s fun to be around people who love who and where they are. 🙂

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