John & Anne Wiley

2010/08/05

About the Route

So tonight we’re in Smithers. We’ve fed and pampered Tripp a bit and checked into a hotel. I got to thinking about our explorations since first reaching Smithers yesterday. That morning began in Burns Lake, we flew around and past Smithers without landing (1), then relatively low along the highway past Hazelton and Terrace out to Prince Rupert where we very nearly got stuck due to weather and lack of fuel before returning to Terrace (2) for a nap in the plane and then a sleep in the tent. This morning we flew back toward Rupert climbing high (3) and thus more able to shortcut the highway and fly more direct to Ketchikan. This afternoon we flew back to Rupert (4) for Canada Customs entry but again weather had other plans for us so with lots of wonderful help from ATC we were able to fly the back country shortcut to Smithers (5) and clear customs here. I’m laughing as I type this, in disbelief at how much we’ve seen in two days! 🙂

Smithers to AK Tracks

Smithers to AK Tracks

Note that I’ve used different colors on the tracks from our portable aviation GPS and on the numbers I’ve added, to help you sort out where we actually went. We got to know the route between Terrace and Prince Rupert fairly well, having flown it four times in two days. We were pleased to see plenty of settlements, boats, and other signs of solace along our Prince Rupert/AK flight in event of engine trouble. Going up we reached 11,500 for safety but coming back we didn’t climb above 9,000 having seen so many options within gliding distance. Flying this route in summer seems to me relatively safe at anything above 7,500 if you’re ok with survivable off-field forced landing in event of sudden engine failure. Since that’s so rare, the more likely worst case in good weather would be an adverse engine indication that would force an emergency diversion to the nearest airport. Since it looked like we were never more than 30 miles from an option that would probably not even cause damage, we’d recommend the flight to other fixed gear flyers like us. Still, it was nice how easily Tripp hoisted us to 11.5k for the first crossing!

Many times we remarked on how beautiful it all is, even when seen from different altitudes and routes. Too bad the smoke was so thick, because the photos come out much worse than what we saw. OK, I’m going off-grid for a rest!

2010/08/04

Yes We Can

Ketchikan!

0508 Ketchikan Smoking

0508 Ketchikan Smoking

So we woke early with a Terrace airport security guy admonishing us for tenting several yards out of place. So friendly and Canadian about it, we all enjoyed the interaction (he later told us a funny flying story). After looking into weather and our souls we decided the backtracking past Prince Rupert again is worth tagging AK. We love visiting new states and provinces as you probably know. The moment we landed, our hearts all but leapt from our chests with delight. Such a beautiful place! We were here before, on one of the cruise ships you see in the distance of this shot from outside the airport terminal. As you can see, the smoke from all the regional fires has reached here too but doesn’t detract much in person.

It took lots of jumping through hoops to make this happen, and we still have more to go both leaving the US and entering Canada. May the rules be favorable upon our journey. Despite some fears (ask Anne), Tripp performed flawlessly. She lifted us easily to 11,500 and would have happily kept climbing at 500fpm but the air was getting a bit thin and we’d already reached safe gliding distance to passable airport alternatives. Being higher we saw the now-familiar route from Terrace to Prince Rupert anew.

0504 More Mountain Marvels

0504 More Mountain Marvels

Long streams of bright orange stuff were in many coves and along beaches, and stretching out into the inland passage. Anyone know what they are?

0507 Orange Seas

0507 Orange Seas

Outside the airport terminal we paused to visit our old friend fireweed, that we had both so enjoyed in our Northerly years.

0513 Fireweed

0513 Fireweed

Now back to Tripp for our hoop game with U.S. and Canadian Customs. Oh, the U.S. guy when we landed here sure was surprised that we’d just flown in for an hour! 🙂

Time Travel

Today was a flight back in time for me. Starting at Burns Lake we had great flying weather to Smithers, where I said hello to an old friend named Hudson Bay Mountain.

0256 Hudson Bay Mtn

0256 Hudson Bay Mtn

I came of age sitting at the feet of this magnificent mountain, playing guitar, writing poetry, and contemplating life as the sun slipped behind the mountain in the early afternoon.

0280 Treehouse

0280 Treehouse

Where my small cabin once stood alone in a clearing, it now serves as the heart of a sprawling home with a minivan parked about where my old VW bus once sat. My farewell poem was named Treehouse, dedicated to new dreamers, so it was a delight to see so much more story there now. Seeing it took me back many years until I could hear again the loons flying between the two small lakes on the outskirts of Smithers, intoning their magical assortment of forlorn calls. I remembered trying to imitate them when I jogged to the larger lake for a swim across, and how they watched in bemusement from halfway out in the lake. Until the day I sang one of my own songs, composed on the porch in the early sunset, and then they swam right up to listen. Such times those were!

0411 Edge Of Wild

0411 Edge Of Wild

Next we flew along the river toward Hazelton, searching for another place I lived briefly, out at the edge of the wilderness North along the Suskwa River. At last we found it, still there but surrounded by many more buildings than the lone farmhouse that was there in my time. Looks like several more families are there now, but the little cluster is still ten miles on a small track from the nearest neighbors. I remember walking to the logging road several times in winter, once sleeping in a disabled pickup and waking to discover a bobcat had slept beneath the cab. This was where I once contemplated “going into the wild,” to live as a hermit away from all contact. Luckily for me, and with considerable influence from a caring soul, I returned to Smithers and eventually to California. Seemed like a close call at the time, but now it’s so far from the warm circle of friends and family that so enrich my life.

All during today’s flight I was watching fuel even more closely than usual, because I’d kept Tripp light for climbing more easily up to Hudson Bay and over all the other mountains along our path. Seven Sisters greeted us after passing Hazelton, and even in the dense smoke from all the fires in the region they still form a beautiful family.

0439 Seven Sisters

0439 Seven Sisters

As we passed Terrace I snapped a photo in case we didn’t pass so close to town on our way back from Ketchikan. The river there is so red, yet just a couple of miles upstream it’s bright turquoise until it mixes with one coming down from a different valley. Though it has a big airport I decided not to stop for fuel, since we’d be on the ground in Prince Rupert jumping customs hoops before the hop to Alaska anyway.

0449 Terrace in Passing

0449 Terrace in Passing

After a few more minutes that Anne may share (photos came out much better on her side of the plane facing away from the afternoon sun), we arrived in Prince Rupert. Flying over the town we made the short hop to the little island nearby (across the top of this photo) where the airport is.

0457 Prince Rupert

0457 Prince Rupert

It was quite a surprise as we were pushing Tripp toward a parking space, when a pilot preparing to depart in a similar Cessna complained about no fuel at Prince Rupert. (!!!) Turns out, they didn’t sell enough gasoline to make it viable so they simply stopped selling it. Though they had lots of Jet A for the airlines, helicopters and small turboprop charter planes, Tripp politely but firmly refuses it. Well, since I’ve been monitoring fuel so closely we have enough to fill up elsewhere. When I “dipped” the tanks, try to imagine my amazement at discovering only forty minutes’ fuel! Yikes! Now we’re not going anywhere until we get Tripp some gas. Sure we could make it back to Terrace, but not with the required half hour of reserve much less my one hour personal minimum. Luckily for us, there are a great number of very helpful people in Prince Rupert. We were able to figure out a way for Tripp to get her dinner after all.

0470 Bruce the Gallant

0470 Bruce the Gallant

Especially helpful was Bruce, who gave us several ideas and great conversation as we waited for the ferry into town for fuel. Waiting for the ferry back to Tripp we found a great little nature walk. Have I mentioned that Anne absolutely loves nature walks? 🙂

0491 Nature Walk

0491 Nature Walk

It was another stroll down memory lane for both of us, from our years in the northwest before we met. We even found a berry patch with some late fruit still ready for the picking.

So trusty Tripp flew us back to Terrace, this time higher and faster in case we could buy fuel to reach Smithers. This gave us an even better view of the disappearing glaciers, like this one I recall from those bygone days when I lived nearby. All that remains now is this peaceful blue lake.

0503 Peaceful Blue Lake

0503 Peaceful Blue Lake

I can hardly wait for the renewable aviation fuel now in trials to replace the petroleum fuel that so transformed this wild place. I’m glad Tripp gets about the same mileage as our Camry in the meantime.

Upon arrival we found that self-serve aviation fuel is not available in Terrace (or perhaps anywhere in Canada), that it would be an extra $75 for the very helpful fuel guy to leave his family to come and feed Tripp more reserve for the short hop to Smithers, and with sunset approaching it became clear that we’d be spending the night here. The same helpful fuel guy told us where we could find hotels, and where we could camp next to Tripp if we prefer.

So we’re sitting in the empty terminal building using the wireless internet before going to set up camp for the night in the place we glanced at in passing toward Prince Rupert a few hours before. Yesterday we were in Jasper, and tonight rather than Ketchikan or Smithers we’re in Terrace. Such is our second Big Adventure unfolding as did the last: the trip we dream, the trip we plan, the trip we take, and increasingly as the miles pass beneath our wings – the trip we remember.

2010/07/29

Soo Looks & Locks

Today we playfully walked back to the airport to check on Tripp, chatting merrily and pausing to look at flowers and other fascinations. Our plan was to arrive in time for the Wednesday aviation-buff lunch. Every week some local EAA (the group that does Oshkosh and much more) chapter members and others just interested in planes and/or flying, gather for lunch and socializing. Well, we were 1-1/2 hours late so only half a dozen were still around.

0005 Tripp at KANJ

0005 Tripp at KANJ

Still we had great conversations with them, and also ended up with a “courtesy car” to tour Sault Ste Marie. In many ways it’s an ordinary town with Wallmart and other businesses stretched along the highway. But down by the locks it’s a major tourist attraction.

0008 Workers & Observers

0008 Workers & Observers

A temporary “attraction” is the major construction work that’s disrupting commerce but entertaining at least two old guys who were watching the two workers whose helmets you can barely see down in the hole.

0025 Boat Tour

0025 Boat Tour

A bigger attraction is the frequent boat tours of the locks and surrounding waters. Some in each group seemed to enjoy every moment, while some seemed to be loyal accomplices who’d rather be somewhere else. I enjoy watching people interact, and this moment in time evokes so many stories in my mind. What was the woman in the gray parka thinking just before she noticed my camera?

The biggest attraction we saw was the old street parallel to the locks, lined with fudge shops, cafes, restaurants, antiques, curios, and of course ice cream.

0016 Street Scene

0016 Street Scene

The older girl in the family at left seems at the age where text messages are more interesting than ice cream (or most anything else). There are some great museums on the canal side of this street, and those too attract many visitors.

After our own walking tour, we hopped back in the car to drive further along the lock and tour the town a bit.

0031 Kite

0031 Kite

At the Lake Superior end of the locks we paused to watch a guy flying a complex kite. Want to guess how fast those cars and trucks on the bridge are going? I won’t keep you in suspense, or let you worry about them being so close together at freeway speed. They are parked. Occasionally they inch forward one car (or truck) length, and that gap passes lazily back along the line like the movement of a caterpillar (which might move at about the same average speed). No, it’s not rush hour, it’s the US/Canada border crossing. The entire length of the bridge is stopped in both directions. At least they have a great view. We wanted to walk up there, but were told there’s no pedestrian access to the bridge. We have an airplane that might make for a less time-consuming crossing tomorrow. 🙂

0032 Rail Bridges

0032 Rail Bridges

We were briefly intrigued by the different railroad bridges. Anne couldn’t figure out why the high one doesn’t go anywhere, until I pointed out it’s a drawbridge. It has massive counter-weights hanging on cables at each end, and the whole thing raises up so ships that are tall and wide can pass freely through the lock. The bridge adjoining to the left is a more classical drawbridge that splits in the middle, also balanced by the big concrete blocks on angled girders at each end. That one would only pass ships that are tall but not broad (I’m guessing older ships on which only the masts were tall).

OK, we’re off to dreamland. Tomorrow we’re hoping to reach Thunder Bay and beyond as planned. Weather looks likely to cooperate.

2010/07/28

Airshow Ecstacy

We’re about to go exploring Sault Ste Marie but I wanted to take a few minutes to share some of the photos I finally got time to download. First is my expression just after a flight of P-51s had arrived at Oshkosh on Monday. 🙂

1307 P-51 Mustangs at Oshkosh

1307 P-51 Mustangs at Oshkosh

A kid was staring at this next one asking aloud to nobody in particular, “Where does the pilot sit?” “On the ground,” I replied. After our brief ensuing conversation I paused to stare at it myself, imagining the ability of this machine to watch without being seen and strike without warning. How the world has changed since the P-51, eh? Back in 1945 that plane was scary because you could see and hear it, yet now it is music and art for aviation enthusiasts.

1319 Drone

1319 Drone

What will our world be like in 65 years? Will people painstakingly restore, maintain and fly these for adoring fans when the military has long since moved on to something vastly more scary?

One of the big events for this year’s Oshkosh was to be a mass C-47 flyover. This was another great WWII plane, starting with flying relief supplies over the mountains to China before the U.S. entered the war and culminating in providing the foundation for Allied logistics at Normandy where they again carried supplies and also pulled troop-laden gliders. After the war it was known and loved by many as the DC-3, owned by celebrities like John Wayne (who also flew his), and is still in service around the world. Again my imagination turned to pausing on the beach at Normandy for a moment of reassurance at the sight of reinforcements going to parachute behind German lines.

1320 C-47 Flyover

1320 C-47 Flyover

Here’s the one I mentioned before was using a smoke generator that alarmed some non-aviation observers. I imagined some having been dragged to the show by fanatic loved ones, and others like Anne who had caught the fly bug to become fascinated themselves.

1322 C-47 Smoke Trail

1322 C-47 Smoke Trail

There’s a treat at Oshkosh many people miss: the seaplane base. Just 15 minutes from all the crowds, concrete and stimulation is a quiet wooded lake where people mix air and water.

1336 Seaplane OSH

1336 Seaplane OSH

Click to enlarge and you might make out the mass of planes floating in the distance. This view shows perhaps 1/5 of the planes there, with more arriving regularly. Back at the land OSH base there had been team after team of aerobatic jets arriving, so the weekend show that we’ll miss is sure to be spectacular.

Here are some snaps of the glorious P-51 that was buzzing the runway back at FDL as we were packing up Tripp.

8574 Here Comes Fun!

8574 Here Comes Fun!

8578 Speed & Grace

8578 Speed & Grace

This one was further away than some passes, and even panning with the plane at 1/800th of a second there’s motion blur. With the thrilling speed and distinctive music of the engine, there’s a special grace in the way this plane dances in the air. Can you tell this is one of my fav planes? Sigh…

Here’s a snap Anne took as we climbed up near FDL to have a look at the cloud situation before deciding whether (and in which direction) to circumvent the storm toward our upcoming Canada leg.

1348 FDL Departure

1348 FDL Departure

I’ve added a yellow oval just below the white hangar just right of lower-center in the pic, to show where Tripp had been parked with our tent beneath her wing. You can just make out the other planes still parked on the grass along the taxiway and stuffed into the area around the terminal building at the left edge, but you can’t see the hordes of planes parked along the intersecting runway out of frame to the left.

Last is this shot of Escanaba as we began to approach the Great Lakes intersection town of Sault Ste. Marie.

8607 Escanaba

8607 Escanaba

Well, this quick post turned into quite a photoessay, eh? We’re off to explore…

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