John & Anne Wiley

2010/08/10

Counting

We had some fun in the wee hours last night, tallying up some stuff from our N by NW trip. Looks like about 9,600 miles covered in about 77 hours of flying. About 40 minutes of that flying was in darkness over familiar terrain. We flew in light to negligible rain four or five times, once in moderate rain, once in light hail, and nearly all of the trip in some amount of visible smoke or haze. Today on the smoke maps I notice that nearly all of our route is no longer shown with significant smoke, and once the fog cleared this morning our mountain view is deliciously crisp (we’re talking about taking an evening “homecoming” flight to enjoy the clear air!). We had ten nights in hotels and eight camping, including our little experiment: sleeping in Tripp.

That was at Terrace, when we decided to try out the cozy bed for two idea we’d heard from an expert SBA pilot. By rearranging stuff with the rear seat back removed, you can create a nice platform from the rear baggage area up to the front seat backs. I put bungees on to keep the front seat backs tilted forward, and inflated a twin-size airmat that was slightly squeezed where it entered the rear baggage area for four inches or so where the width tapers toward the tail. Looked pretty good. It wasn’t! The airmat took up too much of the small vertical space inside the tail baggage area, so it was impossible to roll over without pointing your toes. It was also too short for my 6’1″ without keeping my knees bent, and for two people the art of synchronized turning is also required. That was a very brief and troubled sleep, and it ended with an intense claustrophobic gasp that woke us both. It took a moment to realize it had come from me, and then I devoted a minute or two to meditation on transcending the illusion of inability to breathe, and after a very brief and groggy convo we decided to exit the aircraft. While I was struggling to invent a means of escape other than slithering face-first down the landing gear, Anne in one deft “Houdini” movement was standing outside wearing an especially broad smile as she danced and stretched. We then put up the tent and slept soundly for another two hours until the tent gradually collapsed onto my face, though that event was more quickly and easily resolved by just relocating on the luxurious padded queen-size airmat until the tent encroachment was avoided. As we’ve already written, the sleep ended a few hours later when airport security informed us in perfect Canadian etiquette that we needed to move everything back another 20 feet from the taxiway. In case you’re wondering, the tent collapse was due to the pockets that hold the poles having holes in them (thus the poles slip until the tent eventually stretches out flat on the ground with poles protruding through the pockets, though we woke before that happened).

Anyway! Here’s a map with our actual GPS track, except for a couple of small voids where I was futzing with the GPS and one short stretch hand-drawn where I’d forgotten to start a new track before the current one hit max and began deleting the end. The result of that was a long caterpillar shape moving across the continent with a growing gap behind it that no longer showed where it had been. Had I not remembered to do the two or three clicks to fix it, we’d have only the last 1/4 or so of our adventure from the GPS. I’ve added the airports we stopped at, for context.

GPS Tracks With Airports

GPS Tracks With Airports

Our longest flights were about 4-5 hours, and our longest day (with two flights) was probably from Medford home with the refreshing lunch stop at Sonoma. Most days were a leisurely 2-3 hours of flying, with lots of diversions here and there to look at stuff and some fun convos about where and when to take our next stop. Several times we planned a stop and then changed plans on a whim, based on the looks of our intended destination, or when weather (including smoke) invited us to reconsider.

You’ll recall that we landed at some of the airports (and some cities) more than once so here’s the complete list of our 29 landings since leaving SBA, in sequence:
Santa Ynez, CA *Night
Tonopah, NV
Jackson Hole, WY
Red Lodge, MT
Sheridan, WY
Pierre, SD
Ellendale, ND
Fond du Lac, WI
Sault Ste. Marie, MI
Sault Ste. Marie, ON
Thunder Bay, ON
Fort Frances, ON
Winnepeg, MB
Regina, SK
Unity, SK
Edmonton, AB (Municipal)
Jasper-Hinton, AB
Burns Lake, BC
Pr. Rupert, BC
Terrace, BC
Ketchikan, AK
Smithers, BC
Pr. George, BC
Jasper-Hinton, AB
Edmonton, AB (International)
Glacier Park, MT
Medford, OR
Sonoma, CA
SBA *Night

2010/08/09

Home From N by NW

Our grand North by Northwest Adventure ended just before 9pm last night as we glided down over the familiar hills of home toward the twinkling lights of Santa Barbara. Too bad we couldn’t get a photo of that to share, but it would be very difficult to do technically and couldn’t begin to capture what we saw much less what we felt!

What I can offer though, are a few of the least smoky pix of our passage from Medford. ATC kindly cleared us for left departure over town, so I snapped Medford Air where the plane that landed as we took off was parking right where we’d just been.

0777 Medford Air Services

0777 Medford Air Services

The old four-engine tanker on public display lower-left is where we stood in the dark waiting for a taxi to our hotel Saturday night. To the right of the tail is a yellow X and just above that is the dark-colored plane parking where we’d been. There are several other interesting planes at M.Air, including a jet with the tail blown off during an experimental fuel test. The FBO owner had been climbing through 3kAGL on takeoff when the aft section of the engine and part of the tail exploded. Somehow he’d managed to turn and make a safe landing. The jet is now inside the hangar with tail section and wings removed and a replacement engine waiting nearby. Pretty amazing to look at the remains of the old engine and contemplate what that was like for the pilot!

Climbing over the ridge past Ashland we spotted Shasta, but the smoke in that direction (and for nearly the entire remainder of our flight) was so thick the pix are horrible. Close by though was this rock outcrop I call the Cowboy Hat.

0786 Pilot Rock

0786 Pilot Rock

Seems like gMaps calls it Pilot Rock but I still like Cowboy Hat better from this angle. 🙂

Turning away from I-5 toward the coast our ride got smoky and lumpy for a while. Well out into the Marble Mountain/Six Rivers area something fascinated me about this settlement on a bend in the Salmon River.

0787 Salmon River

0787 Salmon River

I like to imagine people standing on those shores hauling a Winter supply of fish ashore for smoking. Think there’s any chance that salmon still make it up this river, or is the name a sad reminder of the era before “progress” came to the CA/OR border area?

The second-least smoky area we flew that day was Shelter Cove. We’d thought about stopping there for lunch, but had left Medford later than planned and the weather was iffy. The strong wind blowing us South was smooth up here, but promised an interesting landing if we tried that. The low clouds zipping South a mile or so offshore could also rush in to prevent our continued flight as they were already doing for countless pilots we heard on the radio around Arcata.

0802 Shelter Cove

0802 Shelter Cove

Trying to imagine how a place so very exposed to the ravages of the deep Pacific could provide “shelter,” I finally spotted the nook with a small breakwater near the center-bottom of this pic (click to enlarge). Notice how the current is running North along the shoreline into the distance while the prevailing wind typically blows strongly to the South. Interesting place to operate boats and planes. We were up at probably 8-9000 feet to provide ample landing alternatives for the forest crossing, so even the relatively light haze here is pretty noticeable. A few miles away toward the South the smoke hung in an orange pall.

It was nice to see so many large vineyards welcoming us home to CA, and this one on a hillside East of Healdsburg offers some interesting shapes as rows of different grape varieties follow the contours.

0815 Hillside Shapes

0815 Hillside Shapes

After deciding not to stop at Santa Rosa as we had on a previous flight, we tried something new by nipping into the little “Skypark” at Sonoma. With the pickup loaned us by the airport manager we took a very short tour into town and parked at the picturesque main square.

0819 Sonoma City Hall

0819 Sonoma City Hall

Across the street behind me is the Basque Cafe & bakery where we not only found a very good sandwich, but a variety of exceptional cookies at $1 each. My fav is the chewy chocolate. Anne bought a loaf of their bread to share with Nancy (unless we eat it all today!).

0822 Basque Cafe

0822 Basque Cafe

That’s it on the right, and behind is an arcada with lots more shops. Now if you’ve never tasted Basque food I hope you get the chance. The best meal we ever had was at La Taverna Basque in St. Jean de Luz, France. This bakery has kindled my desire for more actively seeking out Basque eateries!

Takeoff with nearly full fuel on the short runway with strong crosswind and trees at both ends was interesting. We put considerable trust in Tripp to make it relatively effortless, and she did. It would have been impossible with Flash, even at a comparable portion of gross weight (which would have been hundreds of pounds less). Listening on frequency and announcing our position before and during takeoff but hearing no other calls, my hope was that no other aircraft were operating near the airport. Imagine our surprise then to see a WWII era P-40 doing loops half a mile from the airport at 2kAGL! Never did manage to get a response from it, and once it looked as if we were a mock target. I assured Anne that the pilot surely must notice us, and was both highly skilled and motivated to take good care of what is probably a million dollar airplane. Needless to say, I climbed at full power until well away from Sonoma.

This brings us to the last decent photo of our trip, passing the Vallejo area. Since childhood I’ve always found it intriguing to look at the rows of mothballed ships moored just out of view at the top-left of this photo.

0825 Vallejo Area

0825 Vallejo Area

The entire bay off to the right was covered with low clouds, so we climbed high and to the East. This put us somewhat in the way of airlines descending into the Bay Area, so we added some entertainment for ATC. One jet was ordered to descend below our path but did it too gently, so ATC told them to hold 500′ above us and warned us of possible wake turbulence. Though he told us where to look for each other for extra safety, neither plane could spot the other until I heard the annoyed airline pilot remark to ATC that he had an “RA” (presumably the “A” has to do with Avoidance). I tilted up our wing in time to finally spot him 500′ higher initiating an abrupt turn and climb. It was reassuring that all of us were taking the proper precautions, and that we also had benefit of the “Required Avoidance” computer in the airliner. In a few years we’ll also have the new GPS-based “next gen” system being implemented by the FAA. I hope flying can always be this safe, and still be so much fun for VFR flyers like us. Every time I hear some pour soul following strictly-defined IFR lines in the sky, I’m glad again to have chosen to use the funds required to earn that IFR license – flying freely around the continent VFR instead. It will also be nice when playful P-40s like our Sonoma companion have automatic GPS next gen info on our location and vice versa.

So today we’re resting, beginning to clean and unpack, and already casually talking about where we might go next. When fires abate and weather looks good, we’re eager to visit CO and get back up to OR & WA. Later in the Fall we hope to visit the other remaining continental U.S. state we haven’t seen: Arkansas. Further in the future is probably renting a plane in HI, and maybe somehow finding a way for Tripp to see Europe (maybe across the Aleutians?). For now, we have another trip to remember and dream about and an updated map of states & provinces we’ve landed in.

States & Provinces Flown

States & Provinces Flown

2010/08/08

Club Medford

Our ninth anniversary began in a foo foo Montana resort that most guests apparently flew to in their private jets where rental cars and limos waited at the airport, and is winding down with us snuggled into a moderately priced (but amazingly well-appointed) room in Medford. While it was a great room and a scenic setting, I was secretly glad to be away from the sometimes  snobby elite who all but ignored us dragging our travelpro along the paved trails as they cruised by in SUVs and golf carts. We did meet some warm and wonderful people there of course, and had a great time. Guess I’m just not cut out to be rich, which I guess is fortunate since I’m not. 🙂

What memories this day has brought us! Our first stop was for fuel in Coeur d’Alene, where we also found one of those truly patient and helpful aircraft mechanics (aka A&P) who will chat as you use their expensive tools to install an inexpensive part – and then give you a discount on the part (a landing light in this case). Tripp happily fueled and vastly more visible to other planes in the sometimes thick smoke (it’s everywhere!), we cruised over town admiring the aquatic setting.

0726 Water World

0726 Water World

Somewhere along the line from there to Bend I saw what is easily the most bizarre looking farm of the trip. It looks very much like a giant landing instruction sign for extra-terrestrials.

0731 Martian Message

0731 Martian Message

Not far away is what I call the Clump Farm, where another enterprising farmer has managed to make use of every last inch of usable land.

0733 Clump Farm

0733 Clump Farm

We were fascinated by the area where the Snake meets the Columbia, as you can see below.

0743 Bewteen States

0743 Between States

0744 Water Worker

0744 Water Worker

0750 River Art

0750 River Art

Just be glad I spared you a few. 🙂

We caught Crater Lake just at sunset, and to our surprise there were quite a few cars driving around the rim. The light was so golden!

0773 Crater Lake Sunset

0773 Crater Lake Sunset

We glided down into Medford just as dusk was settling into the valley, and maybe Anne will share some tales about our adventures on the ground before getting to the hotel. She’s been frustrated by her computer’s weaker wifi, so sometime soon you might see a bunch of “new” posts from her that she’s been saving up. I love the photos she takes and the stories she tells, because her perspective expands my enjoyment of our fun together.

So we celebrate the culmination of another year, and begin anew tomorrow. A woman once asked me what Anne and I do for fun and without pausing to think about it I simply replied truthfully, “Everything.”

2010/08/07

Banff

One of the things about aging is that we tend to repeat ourselves. I’ve surely already mentioned “prop advance” for example. That mental condition I’ve noted in relation to flying a small plane. You remember: the opposite of “jet lag” where flying a propeller plane like Tripp creates a time warp that gives the impression of more time having passed. You do a few things in the morning, fly for an hour, and when you land anything you did before flying feels like it was yesterday. My theory is that it’s due to “dream time” akin to the flying dreams I used to have so often before becoming a pilot. Because flying low and slow as we “prop” pilots do is so similar to those dreams of drifting slowly above the trees and houses, wandering here and there on whims. OK, so this entire trip has been absolutely stuffed with dream time of that kind.

This morning as I walked out to prepare Tripp for our flight South from Edmonton, the Canadian military air show team named of course the Snowbirds flew a few hundred feet directly overhead in tight formation. Since I didn’t have the camera you get to imagine how cool that was. Here’s how they looked over Tripp’s tail as they taxied to parking.

0566 Snowbirds

0566 Snowbirds

Soon after takeoff on our way toward Rocky Mountain Home where we’d re-enter the valley south of Jasper, we flew over Mameo Lake and I wondered if the person driving the boat was purposely making patterns in the orange stuff floating on the lake.

0574 Mameo Squiggle

0574 Mameo Squiggle

After crossing some prairie and passing what from the air was an unremarkable Mountain Home, we passed back into the magnificent (though still smoky from all the nearby fires) Canadian Rockies.

0579 Gateway to Rockies

0579 Gateway to Rockies

High on the slopes, we again floated by many glorious features and innumerable waterfalls few but enchanted prop pilots and ardent lonely climbers will ever see.

0585 High Falls

0585 High Falls

Because the weather reports had been a bit iffy and the smoke was likely to still be thick, we considered skipping this high pass to save for a future return trip. It didn’t take long for the miracles sliding slowly endlessly beneath our wings to remind us why so many people visit this area.

0618 Peaceful Blue Lake

0618 Peaceful Blue Lake

People are down there, most probably oblivious to our presence, lost in their own activities and reveries. Not much further, we had all but given up spotting fabled Lake Louise because it’s so small and poorly marked on charts and maps. Glancing up from the town we first saw a small lake, and in a couple of miles the grand old lodge suddenly emerged from the smoke and mist. Wow.

0634 Lake Louise

0634 Lake Louise

So this is what we’ve been hearing about all these years! Soon the grand lodge next to the rapids at Banff provided some idea of how this town got its start. Imagine when this was the only hotel for many miles.

0694 Banff Lodge

0694 Banff Lodge

We have several hundred photos from this part of today’s flight, and even though most are marred by the smoke each is a treasured reminder of the stunning beauty we saw. Many times during the passage we remarked on how on our other flights we’d take pains to snap photos of striking features that today we just admired in passing. I hope we can go back in clear air and do a better job of sharing a tiny slice of the overwhelming scenes we enjoyed today.

Now there were some downsides to our marathon nearly five hour route today. We dodged several nasty storms, adjusted our track many times, endured some light turbulence and even made our first brief flight through light hail. After then fighting some moderate headwinds we arrived late, exhausted and a bit lightheaded from high altitude here in Glacier Park, MT. We’ve booked a cottage at Meadow Lake to begin our 9th anniversary in style and comfort, and have just enjoyed a great meal with a glass of wine to help us transition back to the delights of some ground-based activities tomorrow before we take flight yet again. Great way to start a weekend! 🙂

2010/08/06

Friends in the East

We flew back toward the East again today, through Jasper again, and landed in Edmonton again, for a wonderful evening with two people we love.

0280 Allie & Joshua

0280 Allie & Joshua

Allie and Joshua gave us a midnight tour of the town after a great meal, and demonstrated yet again that best friends make the best marriages.

Our journey here provided an even better view of Mt. Robson because the clouds parted for a moment during our passage. Too bad there was so much smoke from all the fires, because this could have been a stunning photo. Hope you can imagine how much better it looked in real life for us.

0549 Mt. Robson

0549 Mt. Robson

We climbed fairly high to get closer and above some of the smoke, and for some reason Tripp seemed to run a bit hotter than expected. She cooled down again later, so maybe it was due to having nearly full fuel so she had to work harder. Near the top left of the peak in the photo above you can see the “face” we spotted, and here it is in a closer view.

0542 Rock Face

0542 Rock Face

OK, so it’s not Rushmore but maybe we were tired or it was the altitude. 😉

The views straight down were much clearer than the mountains this time, and the color of the glacial water seemed all the more striking.

0552 Turquoise River

0552 Turquoise River

I also liked the swampy area nearby, with its variety of shapes, textures and colors.

0554 Swamp Snake

0554 Swamp Snake

So tomorrow we’ll see what the weather portends. Could be we’ll head South to begin our journey home, or the skies will cloud up and nudge us to stay and spend some time exploring Edmonton by day. Any advice or suggestions?

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