John & Anne Wiley

2011/05/18

Misty Meander

We bucked up our courage and left the cozy B&B after one last tasty breakfast, and since the weather is still too fuzzy for flying we took another long drive across the island. This time picking up near where we left off at the Green Gables (every time I type that it gets the old TV show tune for Green Acres playing in my head somehow) house in Cavendish. Turns out there are at least three L.M.M. houses and all seem to boast green trim of some kind. Our first today was her birth house, where we met a couple celebrating their anniversary. “Nice way to celebrate,” said Anne. “For her,” said I.

0140 Dedicated Hubby

0140 Dedicated Hubby

You may already know I’m a sucker for such stuff, and I confess to having misted up a bit watching the brief intro movie at the official Canadian Government approved Gables house we visited a few days ago. So though I offered the snide quip that Anne and the woman laughed at (the man wisely remained stoically silent), it was I who had brought us here on the drive. Nice that it also earned me major brownie points with the missus. 🙂

0142 Lobster Dinghy

0142 Lobster Dinghy

Across the street was this well-used little boat that has put food on the table when the tourists are scarce in Winter. Driving further West along the North coast, we paused to admire the ground fog that gave everything such a mystical quality as it silently wafted up from the plowed fields trying to rejoin the mists hanging a few hundred feet above.

0146 Misty Fields

0146 Misty Fields

A little further along we came to Silver Bush, a home much loved by the Gables gal.

0148 Silver Bush

0148 Silver Bush

The elderly man mowing the massive lawn on his trusty ride mower motioned us toward the house as if he thought didn’t know it was public (small fee), and his elderly dog grumbled and shared his singing bark as if he yearned for the tourist-free Winter months and lamented coming Summer crowds. Both they and the grandmotherly woman at the counter inside were friendly though, and we enjoyed browsing the gift shop for a few minutes. We then drove along the eastern shores of the massive Malpeque Bay, pausing occasionally to admire the views.

0153 Malpeque Bay

0153 Malpeque Bay

Now I don’t want to say it gets too windy on PEI, but this sight on a grassy knoll facing the bay seems to tell a story in how far it is from the spiffy foundation.

0155 Blown Away

0155 Blown Away

There were plenty of beautiful old homes too, weathered and silent, holding generations of memories.

0162 Past Lives

0162 Past Lives

Who stood in that window? What were they looking at, and who was in their thoughts and feelings?

0163 Reflective Window

0163 Reflective Window

Anne caught this snap I like, of a colorful little fishing village on one of the inlets in the quiet bay. The lives and stories are still thriving there, spilling warm laughter and music into the chilly edges of the ancient silence.

0335 Fishing Village

0335 Fishing Village

She also got this snap of me with the very helpful Donna in a hardware store. She’d helped us find and affix some double-sided tape to hold the gel insole of Anne’s shoe that had been rolling up beneath her heel.

0343 Delightful Donna

0343 Delightful Donna

Such a delightful woman, you know that Winters here are fun for everyone in the little communities as they gather in the dark snowy nights. We had already paused in nearby Indian River passing the striking St. Mary’s Church, to snap some pix for you.

0165 St. Mary's

0165 St. Mary's

I wonder what the stories are behind the ring of old guys whose likenesses are carved on the statues decorating the tall spire.

0166 Men in High Places

0166 Men in High Places

As we checked in, at the near edge of a large open field outside our new motel in Summerside we spotted a pair of foxes playing tag around a small tree.

0167 Fox Tag

0167 Fox Tag

They were so full of life and fun we watched for several minutes until they finally bounded off toward their den near the bay where they dig for oysters.

0170 Patient Ambush

0170 Patient Ambush

Thanks to gMaps on our phone we found a fun little local fish & chips place on a side road at the edge of town that’s popular with locals but we saw nary another tourist. The owner’s daughter has a guitar sitting on a stand, so I asked if there would be music. “No, someone was trying to teach me to play,” she replied. This was all the encouragement needed to get me playing and singing with Anne and the guy at the left and teaching her the three chords of G major. If we ever come back, I hope to hear her doing rousing renditions of Johnny Cash songs mixed with her creations.

0350 Fish, Chips & Music

0350 Fish, Chips & Music

Back at the motel Anne begged until I agreed to walk out in the cold dusk where the foxes had gone. I confess it was fun, and I’m glad she wanted to turn back when we ensured there was no dry trail through the tall wet grass.

0173 Nightfall at Fox Den

0173 Nightfall at Fox Den

In addition to Anne’s happiness and the bracing air, I was treated to a photo op using my flash to accent the young trees reaching for warmth so they can finally explode with leaves. Their bare limbs lit against the distant nightfall somehow evoke the tantalizing nearness of the Spring we had hoped for during our time here.

0176 Anticipation of Spring

0176 Anticipation of Spring

There’s a fair chance we’ll finally be able to fly tomorrow. Maybe to Newfoundland, probably at least to Nova Scotia, and maybe just a retreat back to Maine or Vermont.

2011/05/15

Time & Tide

After a hearty breakfast we took advantage of the laundry facilities in our B&B to do our clothes, then took off for a leisurely long drive across PEI. Well, from Charlottetown up to Cavendish area and back on a loop of several back roads. Clearly this island caters to tourists, so there are lots of kitsch shops including one with statues of riding figures out front.

0114 Riders & Mounts

0114 Riders & Mounts

The steed with a monkey on its back looks less mellow than our mood, but the serene sculpture on the left had the rider apparently using the animal’s tail as a saddle in some way that both seem comfortable with. We stopped because of this sign:

0117 Cafe Open

0117 Cafe Open

Turned out it was only the half dozen or more gift shops that were open, so we saddled up for the short drive out to PEI National Park for a look at the mercifully quiet Gulf of St. Lawrence.

0118 Quiet Gulf

0118 Quiet Gulf

You could see signs of how much pounding this shore gets in more turbulent storms, and ample indications (not just all the wind turbine generators) of how much wind there often is. Back on the country roads though, we saw water parks, amusement rides, and even what looked like a full-size space shuttle.

0122 Landing Error?

0122 Landing Error?

One theory we discussed is that women come to Cavendish to walk the ground of L.M. Montgomery, and the kids (especially the boys) are much happier dropped off at the many nearby entertainments than watching their mothers wander dreamily around an old house. Arriving at the only real focus of our drive, we were greeted by a charming wild, slightly lame and tame fox.

0304 Calmly Alert

0304 Calmly Alert

It was clearly interested in handouts, though we had none, and it circled warily at a fairly exact distance of 20 yards pausing to politely convey a nonverbal request for food before meandering off in search of better-supplied tourists. We then turned our attention back to the other side of the parking lot where a small cottage draws big crowds on sunnier days. My precious Anne was named for this place with the green gables, and she was absolutely sparkling with the joy of being there.

0310 Anne of Green Gables

0310 Anne of Green Gables

For a few dollars we got to wander the original house that inspired the author to write her first book, and to see her upstairs bedroom.

0315 Dreamer's Room

0315 Dreamer's Room

We stood in the yard by a tree that was probably young back then, and looked at the meadow and haunted woods.

0317 Pondering Past & Present

0317 Pondering Past & Present

Arriving half an hour before closing time on a cool day before peak season gave us a quiet and reflective time to be there with just a few other hushed and hardy souls. In a somewhat more contemplative mood we set off again on a loop back toward town, with more glimpses of the Gulf.

0277 Sand & Sea

0277 Sand & Sea

It was raining of course but our friend from Toronto told us not to believe locals when they say it’s not usually like this, so we decided to actually visit Toronto via an enchanting red dirt back road shortcut.

0123 Back Road

0123 Back Road

Toronto itself turned out to be more than a little disappointing, consisting primarily of two intersecting roads dividing two houses marked only by a leaning sign post.

0125 Toronto City Centre

0125 Toronto City Centre

Luckily we did see many picturesque places like the little village of Rusticoville along the way.

0294 Yellow & Green

0294 Yellow & Green

Many places where time and tide await the patient wanderer with the quiet sound of distant birds and lapping waters, above a hint of air moving through trees.

0326 Time & Tide

0326 Time & Tide

On our new route home we looked across the small bay where we walked exploring the restored homes, and the culinary school where we enjoyed fresh chowder.

0128 Another View of Home

0128 Another View of Home

We savored the day, memories of youth, the joys of maturity, and an inner calm that refreshes our love of adventure.

2011/05/14

Friday the 13th

This morning was a little bit scary.

0206 Men In Black

0206 Men In Black

Not just the bare trees in mid-May, or the fact that our hotel was swarming with cops. That’s just because this hotel is one of the main training sites for the RCMP (cops), and was not an indication of a raid or bust of any kind. In fact, they were all quite friendly and many were even a bit shy. It was a bit scary due to the other thing you might notice in the above pic, and even more in the one below.

0087 Vanishing Windmill

0087 Vanishing Windmill

The top blade on the wind turbine above has vanished in the fog, and the wind is so strong the blades are bent back. The top pic shows that the visibility was less than a mile at 11am or so. A bit scary to think about trying to fly in that soup, and we were glad to have chosen Summerside (still giggling at that name) rather than Moncton because PEI has so many fun things to do.

We rented an incredibly cheap and quite comfy car from Enterprise, who picked us up at the hotel next to the airport, and drove into Charlottetown (passing through New Haven again on the way, a cute tiny village but alas not Molly’s New Haven in CT).

0105 Wrong New Haven

0105 Wrong New Haven

Our B&B is in a neighborhood of beautifully maintained victorian houses like this one with an observation tower built by a rich mariner.

0217 Beaconsfield House

0217 Beaconsfield House

We walked all around the downtown in the cold wind, and had trouble deciding between several good choices of cuisine before ending up on the waterfront for fresh lobster. Janie our waitress entertained some kids at the next table by coaxing a randomly-selected one of the feisty live crustaceans to stand on its head.

0235 Lobster Headstand

0235 Lobster Headstand

She’s substitute-teaching and earning an Ed degree to teach elementary school, so her ability to make learning fun and interesting was infectious (she got a round of applause from the patrons after the trick). Turns out lobsters are hypnotized by stroking their head between the eyes, and they will hold still as you prop them up in a 3-point headstand. Once everyone started taking flash photos, it woke up and started moving again none the worse for the stunt.

We’ve enjoyed talking with PE Islanders a lot. At most stops we’ll ask people what they like best about living where they do. Some love it, some hate it, and most are just there (job, family, inertia, fear of travel, or whatever). Every one of the half dozen or so people we’ve asked here say they love it! Reasons cited are Peaceful, Friendly, Beautiful and Entertainments ranging from arts to outdoors. It’s fun to be around people who love who and where they are. 🙂

2011/05/10

Boston Up & Down

We started out exploring the downtown core of Boston, and realized that by riding the convenient subways so much we’ve missed a lot of street views. Like this one that dazzled us soon after popping up from the “T” (for trains I guess) underworld.

9629 Downtown Boston

9629 Downtown Boston

There are several areas with tall buildings, and like most this one has many other attractions. The tall stacks of glass cubes on the left just past the red brick building is a moving freedom walk remembrance of the holocaust. Just beyond is an art area, and the massive Quincy Market(s).

9645 Quincy Market Area

9645 Quincy Market Area

There’s also a selection of charming Irish pubs. But we couldn’t explore those because of what came next.

9678 Boston Aerial

9678 Boston Aerial

We took Zubair and his delightful son on a flight from the suburbs toward Boston. It was less hazy than our last flight here, but we were able to get much closer. Alas, we couldn’t fly right over due to restricted airspace over a sporting event and although it was sunny nearby there were dark clouds and even light rain over nearly all of the metro area.

9701 Charles Bridge Highlight

9701 Charles Bridge Highlight

By slowly circling just beyond the invisible fence around downtown I was able to catch this break in the clouds that highlights the new Charles bridge. We talked about lingering to see if the sun reached downtown, but decided instead to find Zubair’s house where his wife and daughter heard us and ran out to wave even though we could barely see them. In all, another glorious day on our MerriTimes adventure. Tomorrow we hope to dodge clouds and reach Bar Harbor, ME. Hopefully we’ll at least get an hour’s flight North and closer to Newfoundland where we can wait for weather good enough to fly there in a few hours.

2011/05/09

Boston Quartet

Common, Adams, John, and Art today. First we strolled the Common, where we saw the common scene of a boy chasing a squirrel.

9454 Common

9454 Common

The rodent won. There’s plenty of revolutionary history, and earlier, in this the first park (converted from an overgrazed cow pasture that coined the term “tragedy of the common”) in the world. Democracy won.

9466 Statehouse

9466 Statehouse

Then we strolled Winter Street until we came to Summer.

9479 Winter & Summer

9479 Between Seasons

After quickly figuring out the Boston subway system (about 30 minutes with help from several people) we rode out to Quincy, which of course is home to lots of Adams Family stuff. Not the TV show, two U.S. Presidents and a truly remarkable woman named Abigail. The sequel to George Washington (hint: John Adams) was born here, and we found it moving to imagine him running around the large farm and tracking mud in the back door.

9484 John Adams' Birthplace

9484 John Adams' Birthplace

It’s now on the corner of a busy street surrounded by nail salons and other miscellanea, but without the boy born here things might well have turned out differently for us. After some time here and at other apples of Adams’ eye we hopped the train back through Boston out to Harvard, named for another John.

9522 John Harvard (sorta)

9522 John Harvard (sorta)

This lovely bronze of John Harvard apparently isn’t him. They didn’t know what he looked like, so some other guy was chosen to pose for the sculpture to honor the man who inspired this inspiring American institution. The campus and surrounding town are much as you’ve seen and imagined, and lots of fun to wander.

9529 Cambridge

9529 Cambridge

Back on the subway for the quick ride to M.I.T. where we met Art. In this case the FAST kind. It was a show named FAST Light (Festival of Art, Science & Technology), distributed around the campus and attracting large and diverse crowds of people wandering around with free maps and wide eyes.

9558 Stairlight

9558 Stairlight

9593 Art Eyes

9593 Art Eyes

It didn’t take long for us to get “art eyes” that make everything art. Looking across the Charles from campus, our eyes were wide just like those first people we saw looking at the installation.

9602 Floating Art

9602 Floating Art

The blue line you see is colored lights that were pulsing and changing all along the span of the Harvard Bridge, on the massive sculpture that’s red/orange here, and the blue balls (some of which faded to green). I wondered how distracted drivers on the bridge were. Strolling back through campus toward the subway, another artwork next to a ripping good drum circle had people dazzled.

9603 White TunneLight

9603 White TunneLight

A somewhat similar work transformed a hallway between buildings.

9614 Hall of Light

9614 Hall of Light

The moon even put on a show above the fanciful new jumble of buildings on campus.

9627 Moon Over Jumble

9627 Moon Over Jumble

To complete our mesmerization, the subway had an artwork of its own.

9628 Subway Self-Serve Sound

9628 Subway Self-Serve Sound

Each side of the platform has a large metal lever. In the narrow corridor between tracks and platforms is a row of tubular bells. The levers activate pendulums (they look like upside-down sledge hammers in this pic), that strike the bells. In the silence between trains, a new crowd assembles waiting for their trains. Someone with the right combination of curiosity and playfulness often notices the lever, reads the directions, and starts rocking the lever back and forth to swing the pendulums. A soft tone sounds, followed by other tones in an arpeggio that forms an angelic chord hanging in the stunned silence on the platforms. Looking around, people notice the bells and then the person pulling the lever. Across the track, someone often finds and activates that lever. Soon there is a slow symphony of bells, smiles and serenity. Then a noisy train screeches in and a new performance begins. Or not. Either way, life is Art.

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