John & Anne Wiley

2010/08/07

Banff

One of the things about aging is that we tend to repeat ourselves. I’ve surely already mentioned “prop advance” for example. That mental condition I’ve noted in relation to flying a small plane. You remember: the opposite of “jet lag” where flying a propeller plane like Tripp creates a time warp that gives the impression of more time having passed. You do a few things in the morning, fly for an hour, and when you land anything you did before flying feels like it was yesterday. My theory is that it’s due to “dream time” akin to the flying dreams I used to have so often before becoming a pilot. Because flying low and slow as we “prop” pilots do is so similar to those dreams of drifting slowly above the trees and houses, wandering here and there on whims. OK, so this entire trip has been absolutely stuffed with dream time of that kind.

This morning as I walked out to prepare Tripp for our flight South from Edmonton, the Canadian military air show team named of course the Snowbirds flew a few hundred feet directly overhead in tight formation. Since I didn’t have the camera you get to imagine how cool that was. Here’s how they looked over Tripp’s tail as they taxied to parking.

0566 Snowbirds

0566 Snowbirds

Soon after takeoff on our way toward Rocky Mountain Home where we’d re-enter the valley south of Jasper, we flew over Mameo Lake and I wondered if the person driving the boat was purposely making patterns in the orange stuff floating on the lake.

0574 Mameo Squiggle

0574 Mameo Squiggle

After crossing some prairie and passing what from the air was an unremarkable Mountain Home, we passed back into the magnificent (though still smoky from all the nearby fires) Canadian Rockies.

0579 Gateway to Rockies

0579 Gateway to Rockies

High on the slopes, we again floated by many glorious features and innumerable waterfalls few but enchanted prop pilots and ardent lonely climbers will ever see.

0585 High Falls

0585 High Falls

Because the weather reports had been a bit iffy and the smoke was likely to still be thick, we considered skipping this high pass to save for a future return trip. It didn’t take long for the miracles sliding slowly endlessly beneath our wings to remind us why so many people visit this area.

0618 Peaceful Blue Lake

0618 Peaceful Blue Lake

People are down there, most probably oblivious to our presence, lost in their own activities and reveries. Not much further, we had all but given up spotting fabled Lake Louise because it’s so small and poorly marked on charts and maps. Glancing up from the town we first saw a small lake, and in a couple of miles the grand old lodge suddenly emerged from the smoke and mist. Wow.

0634 Lake Louise

0634 Lake Louise

So this is what we’ve been hearing about all these years! Soon the grand lodge next to the rapids at Banff provided some idea of how this town got its start. Imagine when this was the only hotel for many miles.

0694 Banff Lodge

0694 Banff Lodge

We have several hundred photos from this part of today’s flight, and even though most are marred by the smoke each is a treasured reminder of the stunning beauty we saw. Many times during the passage we remarked on how on our other flights we’d take pains to snap photos of striking features that today we just admired in passing. I hope we can go back in clear air and do a better job of sharing a tiny slice of the overwhelming scenes we enjoyed today.

Now there were some downsides to our marathon nearly five hour route today. We dodged several nasty storms, adjusted our track many times, endured some light turbulence and even made our first brief flight through light hail. After then fighting some moderate headwinds we arrived late, exhausted and a bit lightheaded from high altitude here in Glacier Park, MT. We’ve booked a cottage at Meadow Lake to begin our 9th anniversary in style and comfort, and have just enjoyed a great meal with a glass of wine to help us transition back to the delights of some ground-based activities tomorrow before we take flight yet again. Great way to start a weekend! 🙂

2010/08/06

Friends in the East

We flew back toward the East again today, through Jasper again, and landed in Edmonton again, for a wonderful evening with two people we love.

0280 Allie & Joshua

0280 Allie & Joshua

Allie and Joshua gave us a midnight tour of the town after a great meal, and demonstrated yet again that best friends make the best marriages.

Our journey here provided an even better view of Mt. Robson because the clouds parted for a moment during our passage. Too bad there was so much smoke from all the fires, because this could have been a stunning photo. Hope you can imagine how much better it looked in real life for us.

0549 Mt. Robson

0549 Mt. Robson

We climbed fairly high to get closer and above some of the smoke, and for some reason Tripp seemed to run a bit hotter than expected. She cooled down again later, so maybe it was due to having nearly full fuel so she had to work harder. Near the top left of the peak in the photo above you can see the “face” we spotted, and here it is in a closer view.

0542 Rock Face

0542 Rock Face

OK, so it’s not Rushmore but maybe we were tired or it was the altitude. 😉

The views straight down were much clearer than the mountains this time, and the color of the glacial water seemed all the more striking.

0552 Turquoise River

0552 Turquoise River

I also liked the swampy area nearby, with its variety of shapes, textures and colors.

0554 Swamp Snake

0554 Swamp Snake

So tomorrow we’ll see what the weather portends. Could be we’ll head South to begin our journey home, or the skies will cloud up and nudge us to stay and spend some time exploring Edmonton by day. Any advice or suggestions?

2010/08/05

About the Route

So tonight we’re in Smithers. We’ve fed and pampered Tripp a bit and checked into a hotel. I got to thinking about our explorations since first reaching Smithers yesterday. That morning began in Burns Lake, we flew around and past Smithers without landing (1), then relatively low along the highway past Hazelton and Terrace out to Prince Rupert where we very nearly got stuck due to weather and lack of fuel before returning to Terrace (2) for a nap in the plane and then a sleep in the tent. This morning we flew back toward Rupert climbing high (3) and thus more able to shortcut the highway and fly more direct to Ketchikan. This afternoon we flew back to Rupert (4) for Canada Customs entry but again weather had other plans for us so with lots of wonderful help from ATC we were able to fly the back country shortcut to Smithers (5) and clear customs here. I’m laughing as I type this, in disbelief at how much we’ve seen in two days! 🙂

Smithers to AK Tracks

Smithers to AK Tracks

Note that I’ve used different colors on the tracks from our portable aviation GPS and on the numbers I’ve added, to help you sort out where we actually went. We got to know the route between Terrace and Prince Rupert fairly well, having flown it four times in two days. We were pleased to see plenty of settlements, boats, and other signs of solace along our Prince Rupert/AK flight in event of engine trouble. Going up we reached 11,500 for safety but coming back we didn’t climb above 9,000 having seen so many options within gliding distance. Flying this route in summer seems to me relatively safe at anything above 7,500 if you’re ok with survivable off-field forced landing in event of sudden engine failure. Since that’s so rare, the more likely worst case in good weather would be an adverse engine indication that would force an emergency diversion to the nearest airport. Since it looked like we were never more than 30 miles from an option that would probably not even cause damage, we’d recommend the flight to other fixed gear flyers like us. Still, it was nice how easily Tripp hoisted us to 11.5k for the first crossing!

Many times we remarked on how beautiful it all is, even when seen from different altitudes and routes. Too bad the smoke was so thick, because the photos come out much worse than what we saw. OK, I’m going off-grid for a rest!

2010/08/04

Yes We Can

Ketchikan!

0508 Ketchikan Smoking

0508 Ketchikan Smoking

So we woke early with a Terrace airport security guy admonishing us for tenting several yards out of place. So friendly and Canadian about it, we all enjoyed the interaction (he later told us a funny flying story). After looking into weather and our souls we decided the backtracking past Prince Rupert again is worth tagging AK. We love visiting new states and provinces as you probably know. The moment we landed, our hearts all but leapt from our chests with delight. Such a beautiful place! We were here before, on one of the cruise ships you see in the distance of this shot from outside the airport terminal. As you can see, the smoke from all the regional fires has reached here too but doesn’t detract much in person.

It took lots of jumping through hoops to make this happen, and we still have more to go both leaving the US and entering Canada. May the rules be favorable upon our journey. Despite some fears (ask Anne), Tripp performed flawlessly. She lifted us easily to 11,500 and would have happily kept climbing at 500fpm but the air was getting a bit thin and we’d already reached safe gliding distance to passable airport alternatives. Being higher we saw the now-familiar route from Terrace to Prince Rupert anew.

0504 More Mountain Marvels

0504 More Mountain Marvels

Long streams of bright orange stuff were in many coves and along beaches, and stretching out into the inland passage. Anyone know what they are?

0507 Orange Seas

0507 Orange Seas

Outside the airport terminal we paused to visit our old friend fireweed, that we had both so enjoyed in our Northerly years.

0513 Fireweed

0513 Fireweed

Now back to Tripp for our hoop game with U.S. and Canadian Customs. Oh, the U.S. guy when we landed here sure was surprised that we’d just flown in for an hour! 🙂

Time Travel

Today was a flight back in time for me. Starting at Burns Lake we had great flying weather to Smithers, where I said hello to an old friend named Hudson Bay Mountain.

0256 Hudson Bay Mtn

0256 Hudson Bay Mtn

I came of age sitting at the feet of this magnificent mountain, playing guitar, writing poetry, and contemplating life as the sun slipped behind the mountain in the early afternoon.

0280 Treehouse

0280 Treehouse

Where my small cabin once stood alone in a clearing, it now serves as the heart of a sprawling home with a minivan parked about where my old VW bus once sat. My farewell poem was named Treehouse, dedicated to new dreamers, so it was a delight to see so much more story there now. Seeing it took me back many years until I could hear again the loons flying between the two small lakes on the outskirts of Smithers, intoning their magical assortment of forlorn calls. I remembered trying to imitate them when I jogged to the larger lake for a swim across, and how they watched in bemusement from halfway out in the lake. Until the day I sang one of my own songs, composed on the porch in the early sunset, and then they swam right up to listen. Such times those were!

0411 Edge Of Wild

0411 Edge Of Wild

Next we flew along the river toward Hazelton, searching for another place I lived briefly, out at the edge of the wilderness North along the Suskwa River. At last we found it, still there but surrounded by many more buildings than the lone farmhouse that was there in my time. Looks like several more families are there now, but the little cluster is still ten miles on a small track from the nearest neighbors. I remember walking to the logging road several times in winter, once sleeping in a disabled pickup and waking to discover a bobcat had slept beneath the cab. This was where I once contemplated “going into the wild,” to live as a hermit away from all contact. Luckily for me, and with considerable influence from a caring soul, I returned to Smithers and eventually to California. Seemed like a close call at the time, but now it’s so far from the warm circle of friends and family that so enrich my life.

All during today’s flight I was watching fuel even more closely than usual, because I’d kept Tripp light for climbing more easily up to Hudson Bay and over all the other mountains along our path. Seven Sisters greeted us after passing Hazelton, and even in the dense smoke from all the fires in the region they still form a beautiful family.

0439 Seven Sisters

0439 Seven Sisters

As we passed Terrace I snapped a photo in case we didn’t pass so close to town on our way back from Ketchikan. The river there is so red, yet just a couple of miles upstream it’s bright turquoise until it mixes with one coming down from a different valley. Though it has a big airport I decided not to stop for fuel, since we’d be on the ground in Prince Rupert jumping customs hoops before the hop to Alaska anyway.

0449 Terrace in Passing

0449 Terrace in Passing

After a few more minutes that Anne may share (photos came out much better on her side of the plane facing away from the afternoon sun), we arrived in Prince Rupert. Flying over the town we made the short hop to the little island nearby (across the top of this photo) where the airport is.

0457 Prince Rupert

0457 Prince Rupert

It was quite a surprise as we were pushing Tripp toward a parking space, when a pilot preparing to depart in a similar Cessna complained about no fuel at Prince Rupert. (!!!) Turns out, they didn’t sell enough gasoline to make it viable so they simply stopped selling it. Though they had lots of Jet A for the airlines, helicopters and small turboprop charter planes, Tripp politely but firmly refuses it. Well, since I’ve been monitoring fuel so closely we have enough to fill up elsewhere. When I “dipped” the tanks, try to imagine my amazement at discovering only forty minutes’ fuel! Yikes! Now we’re not going anywhere until we get Tripp some gas. Sure we could make it back to Terrace, but not with the required half hour of reserve much less my one hour personal minimum. Luckily for us, there are a great number of very helpful people in Prince Rupert. We were able to figure out a way for Tripp to get her dinner after all.

0470 Bruce the Gallant

0470 Bruce the Gallant

Especially helpful was Bruce, who gave us several ideas and great conversation as we waited for the ferry into town for fuel. Waiting for the ferry back to Tripp we found a great little nature walk. Have I mentioned that Anne absolutely loves nature walks? 🙂

0491 Nature Walk

0491 Nature Walk

It was another stroll down memory lane for both of us, from our years in the northwest before we met. We even found a berry patch with some late fruit still ready for the picking.

So trusty Tripp flew us back to Terrace, this time higher and faster in case we could buy fuel to reach Smithers. This gave us an even better view of the disappearing glaciers, like this one I recall from those bygone days when I lived nearby. All that remains now is this peaceful blue lake.

0503 Peaceful Blue Lake

0503 Peaceful Blue Lake

I can hardly wait for the renewable aviation fuel now in trials to replace the petroleum fuel that so transformed this wild place. I’m glad Tripp gets about the same mileage as our Camry in the meantime.

Upon arrival we found that self-serve aviation fuel is not available in Terrace (or perhaps anywhere in Canada), that it would be an extra $75 for the very helpful fuel guy to leave his family to come and feed Tripp more reserve for the short hop to Smithers, and with sunset approaching it became clear that we’d be spending the night here. The same helpful fuel guy told us where we could find hotels, and where we could camp next to Tripp if we prefer.

So we’re sitting in the empty terminal building using the wireless internet before going to set up camp for the night in the place we glanced at in passing toward Prince Rupert a few hours before. Yesterday we were in Jasper, and tonight rather than Ketchikan or Smithers we’re in Terrace. Such is our second Big Adventure unfolding as did the last: the trip we dream, the trip we plan, the trip we take, and increasingly as the miles pass beneath our wings – the trip we remember.

« Previous PageNext Page »

Create a free website or blog at WordPress.com.