John & Anne Wiley

2010/08/04

Yes We Can

Ketchikan!

0508 Ketchikan Smoking

0508 Ketchikan Smoking

So we woke early with a Terrace airport security guy admonishing us for tenting several yards out of place. So friendly and Canadian about it, we all enjoyed the interaction (he later told us a funny flying story). After looking into weather and our souls we decided the backtracking past Prince Rupert again is worth tagging AK. We love visiting new states and provinces as you probably know. The moment we landed, our hearts all but leapt from our chests with delight. Such a beautiful place! We were here before, on one of the cruise ships you see in the distance of this shot from outside the airport terminal. As you can see, the smoke from all the regional fires has reached here too but doesn’t detract much in person.

It took lots of jumping through hoops to make this happen, and we still have more to go both leaving the US and entering Canada. May the rules be favorable upon our journey. Despite some fears (ask Anne), Tripp performed flawlessly. She lifted us easily to 11,500 and would have happily kept climbing at 500fpm but the air was getting a bit thin and we’d already reached safe gliding distance to passable airport alternatives. Being higher we saw the now-familiar route from Terrace to Prince Rupert anew.

0504 More Mountain Marvels

0504 More Mountain Marvels

Long streams of bright orange stuff were in many coves and along beaches, and stretching out into the inland passage. Anyone know what they are?

0507 Orange Seas

0507 Orange Seas

Outside the airport terminal we paused to visit our old friend fireweed, that we had both so enjoyed in our Northerly years.

0513 Fireweed

0513 Fireweed

Now back to Tripp for our hoop game with U.S. and Canadian Customs. Oh, the U.S. guy when we landed here sure was surprised that we’d just flown in for an hour! 🙂

Time Travel

Today was a flight back in time for me. Starting at Burns Lake we had great flying weather to Smithers, where I said hello to an old friend named Hudson Bay Mountain.

0256 Hudson Bay Mtn

0256 Hudson Bay Mtn

I came of age sitting at the feet of this magnificent mountain, playing guitar, writing poetry, and contemplating life as the sun slipped behind the mountain in the early afternoon.

0280 Treehouse

0280 Treehouse

Where my small cabin once stood alone in a clearing, it now serves as the heart of a sprawling home with a minivan parked about where my old VW bus once sat. My farewell poem was named Treehouse, dedicated to new dreamers, so it was a delight to see so much more story there now. Seeing it took me back many years until I could hear again the loons flying between the two small lakes on the outskirts of Smithers, intoning their magical assortment of forlorn calls. I remembered trying to imitate them when I jogged to the larger lake for a swim across, and how they watched in bemusement from halfway out in the lake. Until the day I sang one of my own songs, composed on the porch in the early sunset, and then they swam right up to listen. Such times those were!

0411 Edge Of Wild

0411 Edge Of Wild

Next we flew along the river toward Hazelton, searching for another place I lived briefly, out at the edge of the wilderness North along the Suskwa River. At last we found it, still there but surrounded by many more buildings than the lone farmhouse that was there in my time. Looks like several more families are there now, but the little cluster is still ten miles on a small track from the nearest neighbors. I remember walking to the logging road several times in winter, once sleeping in a disabled pickup and waking to discover a bobcat had slept beneath the cab. This was where I once contemplated “going into the wild,” to live as a hermit away from all contact. Luckily for me, and with considerable influence from a caring soul, I returned to Smithers and eventually to California. Seemed like a close call at the time, but now it’s so far from the warm circle of friends and family that so enrich my life.

All during today’s flight I was watching fuel even more closely than usual, because I’d kept Tripp light for climbing more easily up to Hudson Bay and over all the other mountains along our path. Seven Sisters greeted us after passing Hazelton, and even in the dense smoke from all the fires in the region they still form a beautiful family.

0439 Seven Sisters

0439 Seven Sisters

As we passed Terrace I snapped a photo in case we didn’t pass so close to town on our way back from Ketchikan. The river there is so red, yet just a couple of miles upstream it’s bright turquoise until it mixes with one coming down from a different valley. Though it has a big airport I decided not to stop for fuel, since we’d be on the ground in Prince Rupert jumping customs hoops before the hop to Alaska anyway.

0449 Terrace in Passing

0449 Terrace in Passing

After a few more minutes that Anne may share (photos came out much better on her side of the plane facing away from the afternoon sun), we arrived in Prince Rupert. Flying over the town we made the short hop to the little island nearby (across the top of this photo) where the airport is.

0457 Prince Rupert

0457 Prince Rupert

It was quite a surprise as we were pushing Tripp toward a parking space, when a pilot preparing to depart in a similar Cessna complained about no fuel at Prince Rupert. (!!!) Turns out, they didn’t sell enough gasoline to make it viable so they simply stopped selling it. Though they had lots of Jet A for the airlines, helicopters and small turboprop charter planes, Tripp politely but firmly refuses it. Well, since I’ve been monitoring fuel so closely we have enough to fill up elsewhere. When I “dipped” the tanks, try to imagine my amazement at discovering only forty minutes’ fuel! Yikes! Now we’re not going anywhere until we get Tripp some gas. Sure we could make it back to Terrace, but not with the required half hour of reserve much less my one hour personal minimum. Luckily for us, there are a great number of very helpful people in Prince Rupert. We were able to figure out a way for Tripp to get her dinner after all.

0470 Bruce the Gallant

0470 Bruce the Gallant

Especially helpful was Bruce, who gave us several ideas and great conversation as we waited for the ferry into town for fuel. Waiting for the ferry back to Tripp we found a great little nature walk. Have I mentioned that Anne absolutely loves nature walks? 🙂

0491 Nature Walk

0491 Nature Walk

It was another stroll down memory lane for both of us, from our years in the northwest before we met. We even found a berry patch with some late fruit still ready for the picking.

So trusty Tripp flew us back to Terrace, this time higher and faster in case we could buy fuel to reach Smithers. This gave us an even better view of the disappearing glaciers, like this one I recall from those bygone days when I lived nearby. All that remains now is this peaceful blue lake.

0503 Peaceful Blue Lake

0503 Peaceful Blue Lake

I can hardly wait for the renewable aviation fuel now in trials to replace the petroleum fuel that so transformed this wild place. I’m glad Tripp gets about the same mileage as our Camry in the meantime.

Upon arrival we found that self-serve aviation fuel is not available in Terrace (or perhaps anywhere in Canada), that it would be an extra $75 for the very helpful fuel guy to leave his family to come and feed Tripp more reserve for the short hop to Smithers, and with sunset approaching it became clear that we’d be spending the night here. The same helpful fuel guy told us where we could find hotels, and where we could camp next to Tripp if we prefer.

So we’re sitting in the empty terminal building using the wireless internet before going to set up camp for the night in the place we glanced at in passing toward Prince Rupert a few hours before. Yesterday we were in Jasper, and tonight rather than Ketchikan or Smithers we’re in Terrace. Such is our second Big Adventure unfolding as did the last: the trip we dream, the trip we plan, the trip we take, and increasingly as the miles pass beneath our wings – the trip we remember.

2010/08/02

Burns Out

We almost reached our goal of Smithers today, but a wall of storms rose to meet us at Burns Lake so we’re settling for the night. Here’s our track West so far:

Track West to Burns Lk

Track West to Burns Lk

This has been quite a day, and it seems impossible we woke yesterday in Regina! We slept in the deserted Jasper Hinton airport with permission, and woke early. Since the mountain pass entry into the Jasper park had patches of low cloud beneath a high solid overcast, we rode into town for a delightful breakfast with Pete & Nadine. Not only do we share a love of adventure and flying, but we talked psychology with former therapist Nadine. After a fruitless search of Hinton for the “archetypal cafe” where locals go, we relented and chose Smitty’s (Canadian equivalent of Denny’s) where it turned out there were lots of locals mingling with a biker group that stopped in. Despite the forgettable food, the company was fabulous. Our next stop was a supermarket where the gals got supplies while the guys tapped into an open wifi hotspot and my main focus was online weather info. Back at the airport I filed the daily flight plan and got a weather brief to supplement what I’d seen online and was about to experience first hand.

0198 Climber's Challenge

0198 Climber's Challenge

Minutes after our fond farewell, we became Jasper gaspers. The sheer enormity of the features is truly astounding. I didn’t get many good pix due to the lingering clouds and the smoke from myriad regional wildfires, but I hope you can get some sense of how amazing this place is. I’d been through on the train once, but flying it is orders of magnitude more astounding. Having only heard about it, poor Anne was even more unprepared.

0204 Bird's Eye

0204 Bird's Eye

At the edge of the village the road near a small pond framed a perfect blue bird’s eye.

0221 Unseen Falls

0221 Unseen Falls

High up the steep slope is a raging waterfall that few other than aviators ever see.

Anne’s blogging right now so I’ll close by briefly describing our passage to Burns Lake. We decided to stay high across Prince George and stop at Fraser Lake. Then we noted that the GPS said nothing about fuel or other services there, so we diverted toward Vanderhoot. Descending to land, another pilot kindly informed us that though there was plenty of fuel the only two people who could pump it for us were not available for at least four hours.

Now my personal choice is to always have at least an hour of reserve fuel. Climbing back on course I calculated 90 minutes’ fuel remaining. While that could have carried us beyond our goal of Smithers, it wouldn’t work for me. I asked our friendly local pilot about Burns Lake and he assured us it has services including fuel. It left me right at the edge of my hour reserve and there were plenty of alternatives within half an hour, so we pressed on. Now we started noticing rain showers ahead. Dodging between those while constantly checking and triple-checking fuel burn against time and distance remaining (and reassured by cross-check with my recently fine-calibrated fuel gauges) we hugged closer to the road and at last made it into Burns Lake. With exactly an hour of fuel remaining. After looking at the sky and the internet, talking to the Flight Service weather briefer, and looking at each others’ haggard faces, we decided to accept the kind hospitality of the airport angels here. We’re snug in a borrowed room, typing away as our eyelids droop ever lower ahead of the 9pm sunset. So all this by way of context on how tired we’re feeling right now. Happy tired. 😉

Into Alberta

Filed under: Flying,Happiness,Has Photos,NxNW Adventure,People,Random — John @ 17:21

Every day is different, every day divine. Yesterday there was something special about the way sky reflected in water.

0141 Bird's Eye

0141 Bird's Eye

Many times a small pond next to a farm house would shimmer with sky as we passed, creating a powerful illusion of the portal of pond revealing another world beyond. Though I saw that effect many times, it was so mesmerizing and fleeting there are no better photos. Even video could probably only capture a hint of it anyway I guess. So much of what we experience flying is impossible to capture or even describe.

0143 Lost Home

0143 Lost Home

An old abandoned farm house on the Saskatchewan prairie miles from any other structure seems to whisper stories of struggling families and improvised repairs.

What would explain these circles? Was there something in the center of each that attracted milling cattle? Were they deliberately carved by a tractor for some reason?

0146 Evidence Of?

0146 Evidence Of?

Approaching Edmonton we noticed what seem to be massive parks and green areas along the river.

0163 Approaching Edmonton

0163 Approaching Edmonton

With all the fires in Western Canada, the air is very smoky in places but the views are still spectacular.

0168 Window On Edmonton

0168 Window On Edmonton

As we descended to land at the downtown airport, our small room provided a grand view of the skyline. We heard that there had just been a car race on one of the runways, and the viewing stands were still there. We also heard that some in the city would like to close this airport. The property must be very tempting to developers, but it would sure be a big loss.

After a brief stop we flew on to Hinton, just outside Jasper, where we stopped for a night of “camping” inside the empty terminal building. Maybe Anne will post some photos, because I didn’t get any here. We met Pete and Nadine, who have explored in their own plane and are now exploring with a small camper and bikes. Thus ended another day of discoveries and delights. Today we hope to make it through the pass to Smithers, though weather may bring other plans.

2010/07/31

Win A Peg

Filed under: Aviation,Flying,Happiness,Has Photos,NxNW Adventure,People — John @ 06:39

Having lived in Canada for a time, some names have a far off and romantic association for me. Winnipeg is among those. We met some great people and had some great fun walking here. Leaving later than hoped from tBay (too much fun there too, including some time chatting with newlyweds whose honeymoon was flying a 2-seat C-150 across Canada), we dodged some dodgy weather. Getting to Fort Frances on our first leg we got down to 1200 AGL in light rain following the highway for a time. I thought it would be cool to see International Falls just across the river. We did, and it wasn’t (cool that is).

0084 Dam Falls

0084 Dam Falls

Very industrial, and it seems any falls were made into a dam long ago. Wonder what it was like before. On the Canadian side where we landed to avoid customs mania, Tom at the airport was exceptionally helpful and friendly. From there up to Kenora was easier, so rather than stop we turned West to Winnipeg. So many fascinating Ontario wetlands and Manitoba farms along the way.

0092 Manitoba Farm

0092 Manitoba Farm

The city itself is interesting from the air too, with what Anne calls a “cobbled” skyline. There’s a bridge downtown that people seem especially proud of. That’s it on the left with the white web of suspension cables. Looks like some great waterfront parks in the area around the stadium.

0108 Winnipeg

0108 Winnipeg

So having been out late tonight, an early start tomorrow is unlikely. We’ll probably just make the relatively short and easy (if weather cooperates) hop to Regina tomorrow, then Calgary and up to Edmonton. We’ll see how it goes, as always on our flexible adventures. 🙂

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